The Colony expands it's Boundaries
Initial Exploration to the East
By early 1830, all available river frontages along the Swan River were taken up and, with an increasing population, there was a pressing need for the discovery and opening up of land suitable for agriculture.
Ensign Dale, accompanied by William Locke Brockman, (born in 1802) of Swan Location 9, "Herne Hill", and Private Terence Sheridan, set out on the 31st of July, travelling over the Darling Hills, and after a week's toil the party found itself descending into more open and undulating country beside a brook, (apparently Heal Brook) and reached another range of hills and named 'Mount Mackie' halfway between the present Northam and York after the Chairman of the Court of Quarter Sessions. On the following day, Dale was delighted to discover a substantial flowing river. The expedition then turned southwards to follow the river upstream, and during the next few days examined the area around the present-day York, where Dale named the 'Dyott Range' after the colonel of his 63rd (West Suffolk) Regiment of Foot, General William Dyott (b. 1761, d. 1847). The highest point of the range they named 'Mt. Bakewell', "in compliment to a friend", Lord Bakewell.
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Lieutenant Robert Dale (b. 14 November1810– d.20 July 1853) was the first European explorer to cross the Darling Range in Western Australia. |
Dale had discovered fertile, lightly timbered and well-grassed pastures of the Avon valley 70 km east of Guildford. The large areas of land suitable for farming were in a valley of a river he named 'The Avon'. It was not immediately appreciated that the stream was in fact the upper reaches of the Swan River, and the use of both names continues today.
Dale returned to Perth, on the 15th of August 1830, and his news was received with enthusiasm by those waiting for land grants. Some remained sceptical, because they had already been misled by so many exaggerated reports. The population along the Swan still only numbered around 1,000 people many living on unproductive grants.
The chief speculation and interest were concentrated on the new river, which indicated great possibilities in what was then called 'the interior'. Lieutenant-Adjutant Erskine, of the 63rd Regiment, left Perth on the 6th of September to obtain wider information of the eastern country. The Avon was reached on the 13th of September, and to his surprise Lieutenant Erskine found a number of natives fishing in the stream. Some days were passed in examining the country along the river's course, and the explorers were loud in their praise of its fertility. The natives were very numerous and became more friendly than Erskine wished. He began his home journey on the 17th, and reached Perth on September 22nd, bearing bright news of goodly country, rich pasturage, and abundant game.
Dale returned to Perth, on the 15th of August 1830, and his news was received with enthusiasm by those waiting for land grants. Some remained sceptical, because they had already been misled by so many exaggerated reports. The population along the Swan still only numbered around 1,000 people many living on unproductive grants.
The chief speculation and interest were concentrated on the new river, which indicated great possibilities in what was then called 'the interior'. Lieutenant-Adjutant Erskine, of the 63rd Regiment, left Perth on the 6th of September to obtain wider information of the eastern country. The Avon was reached on the 13th of September, and to his surprise Lieutenant Erskine found a number of natives fishing in the stream. Some days were passed in examining the country along the river's course, and the explorers were loud in their praise of its fertility. The natives were very numerous and became more friendly than Erskine wished. He began his home journey on the 17th, and reached Perth on September 22nd, bearing bright news of goodly country, rich pasturage, and abundant game.
The Naming of Yorkshire
In the next month, during October 1830, Lieutenant-Governor Stirling who was keen to see the area for himself, led an expedition to the district leaving on the 27th, which from that time onward became known as "Yorkshire", upon the suggestion of a member of the party, James Smith Clarkson, who saw a resemblance between the valleys traversed, and his home county in England.
Stirling located the sites of Northam, York and Beverley, approximately 30 km apart and situated on permanent pools of fresh water.
After looking around the Mount Blackwell district, Stirling and most of the party apparently returned to the Swan by the route they had come. Ensign Dale and a party of six volunteers, including Messrs. Michael and James Clarkson, John Wall Hardey, (Joseph Hardey records that he should have gone as well but his wife was unwell and he stayed home), Henry Camfield (born 1799), and William Stirling, (a first cousin of James Stirling and came out on the Parmelia as well), servants and five horses to carry baggage and ten days' provisions, then left Stirling to explore east, as far as circumstances would permit, and to examine more of the Avon country. On the 28th of October, they separated from the returning party and passed along the northern base of the Dyott Range for a mile and a half, and when nearing the Avon observed excellent loamy soil. On the 1st of November, they found extensive downs and deep woods. John Wall Hardey later wrote:
Stirling located the sites of Northam, York and Beverley, approximately 30 km apart and situated on permanent pools of fresh water.
After looking around the Mount Blackwell district, Stirling and most of the party apparently returned to the Swan by the route they had come. Ensign Dale and a party of six volunteers, including Messrs. Michael and James Clarkson, John Wall Hardey, (Joseph Hardey records that he should have gone as well but his wife was unwell and he stayed home), Henry Camfield (born 1799), and William Stirling, (a first cousin of James Stirling and came out on the Parmelia as well), servants and five horses to carry baggage and ten days' provisions, then left Stirling to explore east, as far as circumstances would permit, and to examine more of the Avon country. On the 28th of October, they separated from the returning party and passed along the northern base of the Dyott Range for a mile and a half, and when nearing the Avon observed excellent loamy soil. On the 1st of November, they found extensive downs and deep woods. John Wall Hardey later wrote:
"The best soil I have seen since I left England is about the base of this hill [Mount Bakewell]; the grass, also, is truly good and thick set. The land walked over this morning is of excellent quality, generally speaking, very nicely situated, and well suited for grazing and agricultural purposes."
The party began their return journey on the 2nd of November. Mr. Dale now decided to allow the gentlemen of his party to carefully examine the valley of the river so that they might have an opportunity of obtaining a thorough knowledge of the country preparatory to selecting their grants. Messrs. Michael Clarkson, John Wall Hardey, and Henry Camfield made a particularly elaborate examination. On the 5th, all left the Avon. However, when they arose on November 6th, they found two of Clarkson's horses had 'taken leave' overnight. One an English mare and the other of Cape town origin. After a long search they could not be found. The party then left Clarkson (and his man. Richard Rowland?) along with all the provisions they could spare for them to search for the rest of the day. (ultimately, they did not find the horses and returned to Perth)
The Darling Ranges were crossed by the party behind the Canning River, and the Peninsula Farm was reached on Sunday, November 7th. They had spent 16 days on the expedition.
The Darling Ranges were crossed by the party behind the Canning River, and the Peninsula Farm was reached on Sunday, November 7th. They had spent 16 days on the expedition.
The next day, on the 8th of November, the Clarksons wrote seeking the Lieutenant-Governor's permission to select the balance of their entitlement, 18,261 acres, on the eastern right bank of the Avon River recently discovered by Mr. Robert Dale. Governor Stirling decided that the district should be opened for immediate selection and so, on the 12th of November, a Government Notice was issued to that effect.
There was a rush to obtain selections along the whole of the Avon Valley extending from Newcastle (Toodyay) in the north, to Beverley in the south, and it is estimated that nearly a quarter of a million acres was apportioned in a few weeks.
The first grant in the old Avon County was apportioned, in fee simple, to Captain Francis Henry Byrne on the 25th of November 1830. Mr. Byrne was entitled to 13,343 acres, and he selected 11,000 in this district. Robert Dale was granted on 9th December, 2,560 acres, in fee simple, on the south-western bank of the Avon, south-east of Mount Mackie, and near the Dyott Ranges. Michael and James Smith Clarkson were apportioned 18,261 acres on the bank opposite Mr. William Locke Brockman, (15,830 acres), N.N.W. of York, on the 28th December; Henry Camfield selected 5,000 acres on the 14th December, river frontage, adjoining the Messrs. Clarkson, (two brothers operating in a partnership) but nearer York; John Wall and Joseph Hardey were allotted 16,342 acres on 28th December, river frontage, immediately south of and adjoining the York town site; on the 29th of December, Thomas Hurrey, 573 acres; George Johnson, 746 acres; Elizabeth Rowland, 200 acres, and on the 30th, James Dodd, 2,000 acres.
Although the settlers eagerly took up these grants, the difficulties of ingress to them prevented immediate use being made of the land. No suitable stock route was known, and hence for many subsequent months the Avon valley remained untouched, and it was only in later 1831 before a definite attempt was made to form settlements there. Previous to this, a town was surveyed and declared on the Helena River, near where it joins the Swan. This town was named Guildford.
There was a rush to obtain selections along the whole of the Avon Valley extending from Newcastle (Toodyay) in the north, to Beverley in the south, and it is estimated that nearly a quarter of a million acres was apportioned in a few weeks.
The first grant in the old Avon County was apportioned, in fee simple, to Captain Francis Henry Byrne on the 25th of November 1830. Mr. Byrne was entitled to 13,343 acres, and he selected 11,000 in this district. Robert Dale was granted on 9th December, 2,560 acres, in fee simple, on the south-western bank of the Avon, south-east of Mount Mackie, and near the Dyott Ranges. Michael and James Smith Clarkson were apportioned 18,261 acres on the bank opposite Mr. William Locke Brockman, (15,830 acres), N.N.W. of York, on the 28th December; Henry Camfield selected 5,000 acres on the 14th December, river frontage, adjoining the Messrs. Clarkson, (two brothers operating in a partnership) but nearer York; John Wall and Joseph Hardey were allotted 16,342 acres on 28th December, river frontage, immediately south of and adjoining the York town site; on the 29th of December, Thomas Hurrey, 573 acres; George Johnson, 746 acres; Elizabeth Rowland, 200 acres, and on the 30th, James Dodd, 2,000 acres.
Although the settlers eagerly took up these grants, the difficulties of ingress to them prevented immediate use being made of the land. No suitable stock route was known, and hence for many subsequent months the Avon valley remained untouched, and it was only in later 1831 before a definite attempt was made to form settlements there. Previous to this, a town was surveyed and declared on the Helena River, near where it joins the Swan. This town was named Guildford.
William Stirling, (James's cousin) who helped explore over the range in October 1830, was the Registrar of Documents in the Colonial Administration. He died the next year at Perth, on April 14th, 1831, aged just 32 years, and was buried on April the 16th, in the East Perth Cemetery, by the Reverend John Burdett Wittenoom. His grave is marked with a slate headstone. The simple inscription reads: “Sacred to the memory of William Stirling, who departed this life at Perth on the 14th day of April, 1831.” He never got to live in the valley.
Before the end of 1831, a further 6,030 acres in small lots had been taken up in the Avon district.
Despite the rapid rush for land along the Avon, it was nearly nine months before the first settlers moved into the area. A number of colonists were already giving up and leaving the Colony, and there were fewer newcomers because knowledge of the struggles of the settlers, (perhaps exaggerated) had given Western Australia a poor reputation. From 1830 to 1832 the population of the Colony fell from 4,000 to 1,500.
Despite the rapid rush for land along the Avon, it was nearly nine months before the first settlers moved into the area. A number of colonists were already giving up and leaving the Colony, and there were fewer newcomers because knowledge of the struggles of the settlers, (perhaps exaggerated) had given Western Australia a poor reputation. From 1830 to 1832 the population of the Colony fell from 4,000 to 1,500.
Settlement over the Darling Ranges
On September 6th, 1831, (six days before the birth of Jane Rowland), the first settlers of the Eastern Districts set out over the hills from Guildford. The expedition comprised about 20 persons and included James Smith Clarkson, John Wall Hardey, Dr Alexander Collie (born 1793, who had been the ship's surgeon on HMS Sulphur), George Fletcher Moore (born 1798 - A lawyer by profession) and Rivett Henry Bland. (born 1811). No complete list remains in existence, but it is unlikely Richard Rowland was on it with the birth of his first child so immanent. A great crowd of spectators assembled at Guildford to wave farewells to the adventurous band. The travellers were escorted on the whole of the first day's stage by the Governor. Ensign Dale was in charge of the expedition. Five horses drew the cart in which Governor Stirling rode. Two horses and two cows were harnessed to the wagon in which Messrs. Clarkson and Hardey travelled. The Governor left the party at the foot of the Darling Range amid cheers from the pioneers. Three packhorses, bearing provisions and clothes in sacks, and numerous men on foot, completed the company. The first night was spent under a large gum tree.
On the following day, the ascent of the Darling Range was commenced. Ensign Dale went ahead and blazed the trees. The axemen followed who cleared a track through the forest, and behind the axemen came the rumbling carts. So difficult was the travelling, that only three miles were negotiated on the second day. Streams had to be bridged with trees and spars to allow the vehicles to pass over, and good pasture to be chosen for the horses and accompanying cattle. It was not until September 15th, when Mt. Bakewell was sighted, that the settlers got a glimpse of their destination. The sight was joyously hailed with three cheers and a volley of guns.
They immediately set about the construction of huts, the preparation required for their stock and the cultivation of new land. Messrs. Rivett Henry Bland, Ensign Dale, James Smith Clarkson, and John Wall Hardey chose an area two miles south of the summit of Mt. Bakewell as the site for a future town (York) to serve the district. In accordance with the Governor's instructions several minor explorations had to be made.
Mr. Dale set out, on the 20th of September 1831, accompanied by Messrs. George Fletcher Moore, Thompson and Sheridan to carry out Stirling's instructions to explore neighbouring country to the south. They returned to York after fixing the site of Beverley and were quite well satisfied. Setting out again, they followed the course of the Avon River to the north-west. After travelling about 30 miles, they crossed some rocky country and reached a ridge which sank abruptly into a large and beautiful valley. They hastened down into the valley where the grass was knee-high. Thus, the site of Toodyay was fixed.
Meanwhile, Messrs. Hardey, Clarkson and Bland and other settlers had taken charge of their grants. To every isolated settler the Government allowed two soldiers as a protection against the natives. The exploring party returned to Perth to present their report to the Governor.
On the following day, the ascent of the Darling Range was commenced. Ensign Dale went ahead and blazed the trees. The axemen followed who cleared a track through the forest, and behind the axemen came the rumbling carts. So difficult was the travelling, that only three miles were negotiated on the second day. Streams had to be bridged with trees and spars to allow the vehicles to pass over, and good pasture to be chosen for the horses and accompanying cattle. It was not until September 15th, when Mt. Bakewell was sighted, that the settlers got a glimpse of their destination. The sight was joyously hailed with three cheers and a volley of guns.
They immediately set about the construction of huts, the preparation required for their stock and the cultivation of new land. Messrs. Rivett Henry Bland, Ensign Dale, James Smith Clarkson, and John Wall Hardey chose an area two miles south of the summit of Mt. Bakewell as the site for a future town (York) to serve the district. In accordance with the Governor's instructions several minor explorations had to be made.
Mr. Dale set out, on the 20th of September 1831, accompanied by Messrs. George Fletcher Moore, Thompson and Sheridan to carry out Stirling's instructions to explore neighbouring country to the south. They returned to York after fixing the site of Beverley and were quite well satisfied. Setting out again, they followed the course of the Avon River to the north-west. After travelling about 30 miles, they crossed some rocky country and reached a ridge which sank abruptly into a large and beautiful valley. They hastened down into the valley where the grass was knee-high. Thus, the site of Toodyay was fixed.
Meanwhile, Messrs. Hardey, Clarkson and Bland and other settlers had taken charge of their grants. To every isolated settler the Government allowed two soldiers as a protection against the natives. The exploring party returned to Perth to present their report to the Governor.
Of the sixteen grants which had been made in the Northam region, by the end of 1831, only four were eventually settled upon by the grantees - Michael and James Clarkson at Wilberforce, Charles Dawson Ridley (born 1787, England) at Baylie Farm, James Purkis (born 1783) at Hampton Farm, and Du Bois Agett at Spring Hill.
In July 1832, the Valley boasted eighteen settlers and four soldiers of the 63rd Regiment of Foot sent to protect them.
Joseph Hardey wrote to friends in England, from Peninsula Farm, on the Swan River, in a letter dated the 14th of July 1832. In part:
In July 1832, the Valley boasted eighteen settlers and four soldiers of the 63rd Regiment of Foot sent to protect them.
Joseph Hardey wrote to friends in England, from Peninsula Farm, on the Swan River, in a letter dated the 14th of July 1832. In part:
"What I have seen of Yorkshire, on the River Avon, I was much pleased with, and think it well adapted for either grazing or farming; but the distance from market, in the present state of the colony, will prevent much being done in the farming line above what is wanted on the spot for consumption."
Gradually more of the grants in the York district were settled though usually by tenants, or men who had contracted to care for other's flocks, rather than by the grantees themselves. Most of the properties were devoted mainly to sheep, for the Western Australian colonists realised that the future of their Colony, like those in eastern Australia, lay in providing wool for the expanding British market. By 1834, half of the Colony's 3,545 sheep were in eight flocks at York, and in 1836 the number of sheep had risen to 5,000.
Gradually more of the grants in the York district were settled though usually by tenants, or men who had contracted to care for other's flocks, rather than by the grantees themselves. Most of the properties were devoted mainly to sheep, for the Western Australian colonists realised that the future of their Colony, like those in eastern Australia, lay in providing wool for the expanding British market. By 1834, half of the Colony's 3,545 sheep were in eight flocks at York, and in 1836 the number of sheep had risen to 5,000.
A township of 'York' was established in 1835 with the release of town allotments and the first buildings were erected in 1836. A small settlement grew up around York town-site consisting of small farms, a camp of troops to protect the settlers, and later a store and hotel.
In 1842, the desire to maintain a stable labour force in steady employment led to the introduction of legislation aimed at controlling the movement of workers. Any person ‘employed in any manner howsoever, either as a manual or a home servant or in any other capacity’, who left that employment could be brought before two justices of the peace, (who were also usually landowners), and condemned to three months’ hard labour.
Throughout the 1840s the wealthy York pastoralists were central to the push for convictism in Western Australia, which was finally successful in 1850. After New South Wales had been closed to convict transportation in 1840, those in the eastern colonies became increasingly eager to end the system altogether. And in Western Australia, established as a free colony, there was widespread opposition to transportation, but the pastoralists made increasingly desperate demands for labour. As an economic depression lifted in 1847, many of the free labourers fled the ‘relentless talons of our irascible York gentry’ for other colonies, prompting a debate regarding the fair treatment of workers by the big
York farmers. In May 1849, an order-in-council was passed making Western Australia a penal colony, and the first two ships carrying convicts.
arrived at Fremantle in 1850, with the colony subsequently receiving around three shiploads of convicts a year. Many of them and their descendants eventually settled in the Avon valley.
Throughout the 1840s the wealthy York pastoralists were central to the push for convictism in Western Australia, which was finally successful in 1850. After New South Wales had been closed to convict transportation in 1840, those in the eastern colonies became increasingly eager to end the system altogether. And in Western Australia, established as a free colony, there was widespread opposition to transportation, but the pastoralists made increasingly desperate demands for labour. As an economic depression lifted in 1847, many of the free labourers fled the ‘relentless talons of our irascible York gentry’ for other colonies, prompting a debate regarding the fair treatment of workers by the big
York farmers. In May 1849, an order-in-council was passed making Western Australia a penal colony, and the first two ships carrying convicts.
arrived at Fremantle in 1850, with the colony subsequently receiving around three shiploads of convicts a year. Many of them and their descendants eventually settled in the Avon valley.
The area now known as Northam did not develop as a separate entity in these years, but in fact was divided between the township of York and Toodyay. There was very little activity on the Northam town-site until well into the 1850s, and consequently the settlers upstream were part of the York district and those downstream were part of Toodyay.
The Avon Valley Today
References:
History of West Australia by Warren Bert Kimberly.
The 63rd Regiment of Foot in Australia 1829 -1833 by Flack.
Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia, During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831, and 1832. by JOSEPH CROSS. (via Wikisource)
History of West Australia by Warren Bert Kimberly.
The 63rd Regiment of Foot in Australia 1829 -1833 by Flack.
Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia, During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831, and 1832. by JOSEPH CROSS. (via Wikisource)
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